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Four fantastic days on the Islands and Inlets
of Argyll were what we were promised, and that's exactly what was "in
the box"!
We spent those days in fantastic company, with
some of the finest scenery the UK has to offer, on the MV Glen Massan
with the Majestic Line.
The company runs two converted trawlers, now
fitted out to the highest standards and offering a warm, comfortable
mobile base in which to tour the best parts of the West coast of
Scotland.
We went in April, which is quite risky in one
way, as you never know what the weather will have in store. But the west
coast has the advantage of the warming Gulf Stream, and they do say if
it's raining in the region, wait 20 minutes and you'll get sunshine.
The other great thing about April is the lack
of the legendary Scottish midge. They won't affect you on board, but can
cause minor irritation in season when you go ashore. Just go well
prepared with repellant and they won't bother you. |
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It made sense to break up the trip to the
Clyde, so we decided to stay in Carlisle on the way up. It made the
drive much less tiring, and so we could enjoy the anticipation of
the trip ahead so much more.
Stunning sunsets greeted us at Maryport,
the night we travelled to Carlisle on our way up to Dunoon, where
we'd arranged to meet representatives of the Majestic Line.
We stayed overnight at the comfortable
Pinegrove Hotel on London Road in Carlisle, but as the weather
showed huge promise we set off after our evening meal to find a good
spot to take photographs.
I'm no expert photographer, but what we
captured was magnificent. And it was the shape of things to come
too, as the next four days were to prove.
The pictures (above and right) were taken
in the harbour at Maryport as the sun set. We'd had a frantic 27
mile dash to catch the sun before it disappeared below the horizon,
and just made it in time to catch these photos.
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We took lots of pictures on the way up,
including on the ferry across from Gourock to Dunoon, but you have to
draw the line somewhere
So this next shot shows our first sighting of
our floating hotel for the next few nights, the Glen Massan.
We were met in Dunoon and escorted to the Holy
Loch marina, where secure parking was provided for the car. It was then
a mini-bus ride of around 45 minutes to the town of Inveraray, where the
Glen Massan was moored. The town is on the banks of Loch Fyne, home of
the legendary kippers, which have to be tasted to be believed.
Looking at the Glen Massan from this stern
view, the Skipper's cabin is to the rear of the top deck, the main
entrance to the saloon below that, and crews quarters below decks. The
craft is just short of 85 feet long and carries around a dozen
fare-paying guests |
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Transport is laid on to get out to the Glen
Massan at its moorings, with the tender on this occasion manned by crew
members Ali and Bob.
It's a steady trip on your first outing, but
don't let appearances deceive you - the wee craft can provide an
exciting ride, expertly handled by Bob at the controls. Not that he
enjoys it of course - it's just a job, honest! |
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For our entire trip the weather was fantastic,
but it was pretty cold at times too, as the picture shows.
This was taken looking across Inveraray to the
north. The building in the foreground that looks like a church is in
fact the Inveraray Bell Tower.
For a small charge you can climb to the top,
where I'm told the views across Inveraray and the Loch are simply
stunning.
The bells are said to be the finest in
Scotland, and are the second heaviest set of ten in the world!
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Inveraray Castle, seat of the Campbell clan
since the 1400's. We got a magnificent view of the castle as we made our
way down Loch Fyne.
It's owned by Torquhil Ian Campbell, the Duke
of Argyll, who inherited the title in 2001 on the death of his father
Ian.
The present Duke has a full-time job promoting
certain brands of Scotch Whisky, but he also has to make time to carry
out the somewhat onerous duties of clan chieftain.
And a fascinating fact from the castle's own
website - he recently captained Scotland to victory in the World
Elephant Polo Championships!
http://www.inveraray-castle.com
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A Naval vessel encountered on Loch Fyne. There
are several submarine exercise areas on the Loch, but you're not very
likely to encounter them - after all, that's the idea, isn't it?!
We were to come across a NATO exercise later
on in our trip, this time as we travelled back up the Clyde from the
Kyles of Bute. We saw about seven minesweepers ostensibly protected from
boarders by a couple of Military Police craft, but we suspect it was
more to do with submarine activity! |
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Mooring on the first night, we found ourselves
opposite the old Castle Lachlan. It was a fascinating experience when we
dropped anchor and settled down to our first meal on board.
The boat is anchored at just one end, and
consequently is able to rotate gently. It gave the impression of sitting
in a revolving restaurant, giving us some of the best views we've ever
had the pleasure to eat to!
The old castle has now been replaced by a new
building, which is only around a couple of hundred years old! It's a ten
minute walk away, and is the seat of the McLachlan clan.
The new castle, built in the 18th century, has
been divided into two, with half now forming letting accommodation.
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The harbour in Tarbert was our next stop on
the second day. We drew into the harbour to stock up on drinking water
and other supplies, and for the passengers to take a look around the
little town.
One thing you're never short of in these parts
is castles, and of course Tarbert is no exception.
The town is also known as the Gateway to
Kintyre, and would be an ideal centre for a short stay in the region.
Getting into and out of the harbour was an
interesting experience, with the skipper having to negotiate a dog-leg
passage. Next stop was Lochranza, on the Isle of Arran. |
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Lochranza is probably our favourite place on
the Isle of Arran. On a previous visit we spotted an entire herd of red
deer on the local golf course - a regular hazard for golfers!
Sadly I wasn't able to go ashore on this
occasion, having decided I didn't really need sea sickness tablets on
the crossing from Loch Fyne! The wife was slightly more sensible and was
fine, but I lay in my cabin for most of the afternoon feeling very sorry
for myself!
In Judith's picture you see Goat Fell shrouded
in cloud - she'd planned to get pictures of the deer and the many seals
that are usually to be seen on the rocks in Lochranza bay, but they'd
obviously decided they weren't getting sufficient royalties and were
remarkable by their absence.
We did see them on the skyline, out of good
photo range, and an eagle was spotted too, but once again too far away
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From Lochranza the following morning we set
sail for the Kyles of Bute, heading across the Cock of Arran and past
Inchmarnock Island, just recently sold by Richard Branson's brother.
Skipper Scott told us the island had been used to house alcoholics in
the past, in a bid to keep them from the evil drink.
We sailed into the Kyles of Bute from the
western approach, calling in at Tighnabruaich. We went ashore with
several other passengers and had a wander around. There were several
galleries in the village, a lifeboat station, a cafe, and even a bank -
a surprise in such a remote location.
I'm not sure why, but the only decent picture
we got was of me in the tender heading back to the boat! It was fairly
choppy this time, and several of us were soaked to the skin by the time
we boarded the Glen Massan, but it was brilliant fun! |
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This little island had one or two surprises in
store, as we headed up the Kyles of Bute. Not only was there a heronry
in the trees, but a family cemetery too. We saw several birds landing in
the trees as we passed by, but it seemed as soon as either of us brought
our cameras to bear, they ducked out of sight!
I believe the little island is called Eilean
Dubh, and it's opposite a somewhat inappropriately named landmark called
Buttock Point! We also spotted a flock of seagulls mobbing a buzzard at
the far side of the island. I caught it on camera, but the quality's not
too good, so I've not included it here. |
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Moorings for our final night on board were in
an idyllic little bay at the entrance to Loch Riddon. Words could hardly
describe how beautiful this area is.
Because it was so sheltered the boat barely
moved, but once again our evening meal was punctuated by a slowly
drifting panorama of the little bay, followed by views of Burnt Island
down the eastern Kyle, then Buttock Point, then the Western Kyle, Eilean
Dubh, and finally the bay again.
I imagine when all the leaves come out of the
surrounding trees the views will be enhanced even further, but for me as
I mentioned before, it was unimaginably beautiful. |
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As you can see from the picture above, we went
ashore to capture the images of the Glen Massan at it's moorings in the
bay.
I climbed a little hillock to get a good
viewpoint, and on the way up I came across these dense carpets of
sphagnum moss, in amongst the birch woodland (right).
I took dozens of pictures, including close-ups
of large specimens of lichen, which only tend to grow where the air is
really pure.
The boat looked fantastic from the top of the
hill, bathed in the early evening spring sunlight - superb! |
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The last day saw us leave our moorings from
the entrance to Loch Riddon, heading down through the tricky narrow
passage by Burnt Island, and past the entrance to Loch Striven. With
Rothesay to starboard and Toward Castle to port we turned into the Firth
of Clyde and headed upstream, accompanied by a flotilla of minesweepers
taking part in a NATO exercise.
Finally we made our way into the Holy Loch
marina, our last port of call. This is where sadly our trip ended - I'd
personally have liked to carry on for weeks, but skipper Scott and chef
Mary were heading off on another voyage, this time delivering a yacht to
Ireland.
Taking over for the next cruise was Neil and
partner Debbie, taking on the role of skipper and chef respectively. We
faced a 260 mile drive home - but we had plenty to talk about! |
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The crew and our fellow travellers in the
saloon of the MV Glen Massan. On the left there's Debbie (crew), Martin
(crew), Sophie (guest), Viv (guest) and Kevin (guest - Guardian
journalist). Starting at this end of the table on the starboard side is
me in typical pose (guest), Judith (guest), Neil (crew), Andy (crew) and
John (guest). |
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And the crew assembles for a final group
photo.
From left, Andy (seated) and Bob (standing).
Bob is the engineer, and takes charge of the tender for shore trips.
Neal, the skipper who took over from Scott the week after our trip;
seated in front is Ali (cabin crew) then standing is Scott (skipper
during our trip).
Kneeling in front of Scott is Mary, his wife
and our chef; next to her is Debbie and finally Martin. These are some
of the nicest people we've ever had the pleasure to spend time with. |
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And a few
of the pics that got away. To the left is a yacht caught in the evening
sunlight, while on the right is a picture of Dunoon, taken from the
ferry on day one. |
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On the left is the ferry we should have
caught - we stopped too soon in Gourock and boarded the Caledonian
MacBrayne. Still, we got there in the end! On the right is Judith on the
ferry, grinning like a Cheshire cat in eager anticipation of the trip
ahead! |
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To the left, a bizarre building on Strone
Point that wouldn't have looked out of place in Psycho, while (right)
I'm pictured at the wheel of the Glen Massan, heading down Loch Fyne.
Skipper Scott allowed me to take control for around 3/4 of an hour. (He
does look a bit nervous though!) |
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The Islands and Inlets of Argyll
cruises are provided by the Majestic Line, 3 Melville Crescent, Edinburgh EH3
7HW. Telephone +44 (0)131 623 5012. Click
HERE to go to the
Majestic Line website
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